For the best part of half a century I wore a tie every day.
At junior school it was admittedly elasticated with a pre-tied knot, but then
at senior school it was a rather natty blue, gold and white affair that
actually needed to be tied. Moving from the elasticated tie to the one that had
to be tied was something of a rite of passage. This being the seventies, when
ties were worn very, very wide and the school tie was somewhat narrow this led
to many boys (and girls for that matter as they also had to wear the tie),
constructing a knot the size of their fist, with the actual hanging part of the
fabric about two inches long. This was however the widest part of the tie so it
was vaguely fashionable, even if this style was frowned upon by the school
establishment.
When I started work ties were obligatory in offices but
workers in all sorts of occupations, including many blue collar jobs,
habitually wore them. Many men wore them even when they were not working. My
own father regularly wore a tie even after he retired when he wore a proper
shirt. In fact his wardrobe consisted only of proper shirts; he was never a t-shirt
or polo shirt wearer, thus he wore a tie most of the time when he went out.
Over recent years office wear has become less formal. It
started (in my old offices at least) with dress down on special occasions, then
informal wear (t-shirts and jeans) became a regular Friday occurrence, normally
with a small donation to charity attached. Then it was decided that ties need
not be worn even with a suit from Monday to Thursday, until ultimately dress
down became the norm five days a week. I was not an adherent of wearing a work
shirt and suit without a tie however. To me wearing a suit without a tie looks strange.
If the top shirt button is not done up it looks scruffy; if it is done up it
looks odd. The only way a shirt without a tie with a suit looks good is when
the shirt is collarless, a look favoured by some Middle Eastern politicians. So
while many people around me at work went tieless, I persisted when wearing a
suit; somehow it felt more natural to me. Apart from anything else, after over
forty years of tie wearing I actually felt more comfortable wearing one. There
is a school of thought that suggests that more formal work wear is actually
associated with greater professionalism and productivity and I’d subscribe to
that to some degree. Even though my office went fully dress down, there were
some buildings that did not so visiting them for meetings meant that we had to
adopt their dress code; certainly in customer facing roles formal attire was
still compulsory. It’s about image I guess and our culture still associates
formal wear with efficiency and professionalism.
Recent research by online fashion retailer Very.co.uk has
found that one in ten workers cite dress down Friday as the most stressful day
of the week and 15 per cent become so stressed by what to wear they even call
in sick. Somewhat extreme and exactly the opposite effect that their employers
were aiming for, so perhaps it’s understandable that some organisations have
actually bucked the dress down trend and reverted to the requirement for staff
to wear formal dress, including ties for men.
Pushing the dress down boundaries are Virgin Atlantic.
According to their website, “Virgin Atlantic sprung a surprise on Canadian
breakfast television this week, as they presented CTV Breakfast anchor Aamer
Haleem with a ‘Say Bye To The Tie’ t-shirt – following his cutting encounter
with Richard Branson last year. Last May the Virgin Group Founder was a guest
on the show when he decided Haleem would probably be slightly more comfortable
without his tie, before taking matters into his own hands and producing a pair
of scissors from his top pocket.”
The article goes on to say “if you’re a tie wearer then look
out. You never know when Richard Branson will next be on the spot to cut your
attire down to size.” Now I’ve never met Sir Richard, and frankly I don’t think
that I’m likely to, but in the event that I did, and that I was wearing a tie and
he took a pair of scissors to it, I would not be best pleased. Sure, if I
worked for Virgin and was asked not to wear a tie I wouldn’t but otherwise I
will wear one if I choose to; in some circumstances it would probably be
disrespectful not to. I am sure that there are many clubs and restaurants that
still insist on men wearing ties and why not? As to comfort, I can’t see why a
tie should be uncomfortable unless the wearer feels that their neck is being
constricted, in which case it is the tightness of their shirt collar that is
the problem, not the tie.
Some people view the tie as superfluous, unnecessary, an
outdated garment that may inconveniently immerse itself into a cup of tea or
fly over the wearer’s shoulder on a windy day. To those people I’d point out
that most useful of additions to a tie wearer’s wardrobe, the tie tack, of
which I have several and which prevent such inconvenient dunkings and flyaway
moments. I rather miss wearing a tie now that I don’t work and don’t have to;
I’m sure that the next time an opportunity to wear one presents itself I will
quite enjoy doing so.
If it’s true that the tie is a non-essential item of
clothing then one day it may go the way of the cravat and the tie dye shirt,
but men’s suits tend to be dull and drab without a tie. A tie gives the wearer
the opportunity to add a touch of individuality and colour to their dress. It’s
not too strong to say that a suit is incomplete without a tie. The late fashion designer Alexander McQueen, opined
that men should always wear a tie on formal occasions. He was asked why.
"Because it looks better," he said and I concur.