Jamie Oliver recently addressed the House of Commons Health Committee, and one of
the things he said was that a so called "sugar tax" on soft drinks
was the “single most important” change that could be made to tackle child
obesity. Predictably this was met with some criticism. It's a tax on the poor,
his critics claim. It's claimed that it is naive to think that poor people are
obese because they eat food that's bad for them and by taxing them, they will
be encouraged to eat more healthily. And that's possibly true, taxing people
won't change their mindset, but then again, with some people, nothing will.
He's not everyone's cup of tea, and his messages sometimes get lost because of that. |
Oliver's foray into the world of school dinners may have
smacked of publicity stunt, it was the subject of a TV series after all, but he
made a serious point about the nutritional value of school dinners when they
consist almost unremittingly of mechanically retrieved, reformed meat products,
pizzas and chips. They are cheap, the argument goes, and with budgetary
constraints, represent the best value for schools. Except, much in the manner
of Oscar Wilde's cynic, we are confusing price and value. Yes, burgers and
sausages, chicken bits and pies may be cheap, but good value? Not nutritionally.
Jamie Oliver's attempts to make school meals healthier met with a predictable
queue of parents at the school gates, posting takeaways through the fence to
ensure that their offspring maintained their daily intake of sugar, salt,
saturated fats and minced animal offcuts.
It seems that many parents are happier if their child's school dinner looks like this... |
...rather than like this. |
When all else fails, Oliver can be criticised for what his
detractors view as his patronising belief that we can eat well for less.
Strangely, programmes like "Eat Well For Less" presented by Greg
Wallace and Chris Bavin, or predecessors like "Honey, We're Killing The
Kids" which have both promoted healthier food choices that can be got by
spending less than on nutritionally poorer alternatives, don't attract the same
sort of opprobrium. And if you think that Oliver's recipes are
"poncey" and that every one requires a large number of expensive
ingredients, then use the recipes as inspiration, use your brain and adapt
rather than trying to copy them exactly. But of course sneering at people while
slurping down a microwave lasagne is so much easier and satisfying than
chopping some vegetables and actually cooking a meal.
The misconception that Oliver's critics seem to have is that
he expects the poor to shop at Waitrose or a farmers markets, to buy exotic fruit,
vegetables and spices, organic meats and wholegrain pasta to create sumptuous
banquets; he isn't. What he wants is people to look beyond the empty calories
of the ready meal, the artery clogging piles of takeaway gunk and eat healthily
instead. Oh, but chips are so cheap, you say (hence the expression, cheap as
chips). They are not. A small portion of chips at a local chip shop costs £1.40 and a large one, £2.20 ; a bag of
McCains oven chips, weighing in at 907g, costs £1.50 at Asda (that's the
equivalent of £1.65 per kilo), or a one kilo bag of spuds costs 99p.
But apparently the poor have no alternative to the ready
meals in their local convenience store or the chicken 'n' chips takeaway, with
the occasional McDonalds Big Mac Meal or home delivered pizza as a treat,
because real food is sooo expensive; except it isn't. How much is a head of broccoli? 49p in Tesco,
and that will be enough for eight portions. Carrots? Aldi sell them for 49p per
kilo. Potatoes, enough for eight servings, 99p. Four chicken breasts at Tesco,
£5. For £7 you can feed a family of four with food to spare, while your chicken
bargain bucket will set you back a tenner. Real food isn't exorbitantly priced and
supermarkets sell meat and vegetables approaching their sell by date at reduced
prices. What's needed is a little thought, thinking beyond the ready
meal/takeaway option. Even when a ready meal is cheaper, it will be poorer
nutritionally; the perceived economy is a false economy.
106 grams of fat, 35 grams of sugar and 7.6 grams of salt. |
It is undeniable that at the moment in this country a lot of
people, even people in work, are living in poverty. There is undoubtedly food
poverty in this country, (the first UK
food bank opened in 2000 and there are now 445) not that it's exclusively a
British issue. France has twice as many food banks as we do and in Germany 1.5
million people a week used food banks in 2014, compared with just over one million
people who used them in the UK in the whole of the two years 2014-2015. That
isn't to play down the problem, but those who wring their hands and suggest
that the poor are condemned to a diet of ready meals and takeaways are actually
perpetuating the problem, and to some extent, it is in their interest to do so.
39 grams of sugar, or to put it another way, 9 tea spoons |
Apparently the poor are not only unable to afford anything
other than junk food, even though healthy food can be cheaper, they are unable
to aspire to anything better and have no ambition to improve their lot, which
is exactly what Oliver's critics want. The poor provide them with a stick to
beat him and the Tories with, except at least Jamie Oliver is trying to do
something - I can't speak for the Tories, they seem to have adopted the old
song as their manifesto, "it's the rich what get the pleasure, and the
poor what get the blame." Critics of Oliver, or anyone else who suggests
that the poor might actually want to improve their diet, condescend to them;
"you are poor," they say, "do not aspire to improve your lot,
know your place."
The fact is that the poor have always been with us; ready
meals haven't, they only became commonplace in the UK in the 1970's. What did
the poor do before then? Well, if my parents were anything to go by, and they
were by no means well off (my Mum didn't work for most of the 1960's and my Dad
was in and out of jobs during that period, often unemployed and receiving no
benefit) they eked out what they could. A cheap joint would stretch to six
servings at least, padded out with potatoes, vegetable and bread.
Jamie Oliver is a soft target and frankly it's so much
easier to attack him than it is to address the issues of Britain's poor diet
and obesity problem. The real problems are that it isn't in the interests of a
lot of people to actually find a solution; perpetuating the problems of the
poor is to their advantage. You could give a lot of the more feckless poor free
meat, vegetables and potatoes that they had to prepare themselves and they'd
still be microwaving junk and queuing at the chicken shop.